Banca de DEFESA: GABRIEL AZEVEDO DE BRITO DAMASCENO

Uma banca de DEFESA de DOUTORADO foi cadastrada pelo programa.
DISCENTE : GABRIEL AZEVEDO DE BRITO DAMASCENO
DATA : 31/07/2019
HORA: 08:30
LOCAL: Auditório do CCS
TÍTULO:

PRODUTO COSMÉTICO SÓLIDO COM Prosopis juliflora: AVALIAÇÃO DA SEGURANÇA, DESENVOLVIMENTO DE FORMULAÇÕES E ESTUDO DA EFICÁCIA HIDRATANTE E ANTI-RUGAS

PALAVRAS-CHAVES:

Algaroba; Anti aging; Cosmetics; Moisturizing; Polysaccharides; Prosopis juliflora; Fabaceae.

PÁGINAS: 168
GRANDE ÁREA: Ciências da Saúde
ÁREA: Farmácia
RESUMO:

Prosopis juliflora (PJ) is an invasive plant of Brazilian Caatinga and presents compounds in its metabolic composition of interest in cosmetic products. This work aims the development of cosmetic formulations in the form of a solid core containing PJ extract that upon contact with water will form instantly a gel for single dose use. It also aims the in vitro and in vivo safety study of the extracts and the moisturizing and anti-wrinkle activities clinical efficacy. The samples were purified by centrifugal ultrafiltration and gel filtration chromatography, followed by acid hydrolysis and analysis of the monosaccharide composition by paper chromatography and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR). The fraction smaller than 3kDa was evaluated by liquid chromatography mass spectrometry (LC-MS) while the fraction greater than 3kDa by NMR. The total fraction was analyzed by an integrated NMR platform. The in vitro antioxidant activity was evaluated using different methodologies. In vitro safety assessment was performed using cytotoxicity and phototoxicity tests using colorimetric method and neutral red and MTT as vital corants. The in vivo safety evaluation was performed through the cutaneous compatibility test. A preformulation step was performed and the most suitable technique of obtaining the formulations was chosen, which were then submitted to a 90 days stability study. Finally, for the clinical evaluation of moisturizing and anti-wrinkle efficacy, the water content of the stratum corneum and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured before and 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 hours after application. These parameters and skin micro relief were evaluated after 30 days of daily use of the formulations. The experimental design revealed that the best extractive conditions were at 34ºC / 3,5h (PJ2). The fraction greater than 3KDa (PJ2) was characterized as an α-glucan and the fraction smaller than 3kDa presented phenolic compounds, some of which are unpublished for the species, and alkaloids. These results agree with those obtained by the integrated NMR network for the total fraction. The samples did not present cytotoxic and phototoxic effects at the concentrations tested, nor did any volunteers present cutaneous reactions. These results are an indication of safety of the raw material. In vitro antioxidant activity evaluations demonstrated the potential of PJ2 acts in different stages of the oxidative cascade. Eight formulations were delineated in the preformulation stage and three methods of obtaining the solid cores were evaluated: direct compression, molding and compression of granules obtained by wet granulation. The latter allowed the incorporation of an emollient phase in the formulation and proved to be the most suitable method to obtain the stable solid cores. After the clinical efficacy tests, it was possible to observe that the formulation added with PJ2 increased the water content of the skin within 5h after the application. In the long-term tests, there was an improvement of the water content, reduction of TEWL and improvement in the parameters of cutaneous relief. Thus, evidencing the applicability of this new form and cosmetic raw material as a moisturizing and anti-aging agent.

MEMBROS DA BANCA:
Interno - 1789788 - ADLEY ANTONINI NEVES DE LIMA
Externa ao Programa - 1778262 - ELISSA ARANTES OSTROSKY
Externo à Instituição - IAN CASTRO GAMBOA - UNESP
Presidente - 1714294 - MARCIO FERRARI
Externo à Instituição - MARIA VALÉRIA ROBLES VELASCO - USP